Kavurmacı Hacı

Kavurmacı Hacı draws its name and its central dish from the old Anatolian tradition of kavurma — meat slowly cooked down in its own fat until tender and fragrant, then preserved for winter in earthenware jars or served fresh on beds of steaming pilaf. The title hacı, 'the pilgrim', indicates that the proprietor has made the journey to Mecca, and in Turkish restaurant culture this carries an implicit pledge of integrity in sourcing and preparation: the meat is halal, the accounts are honestly kept, and the customer will be treated fairly. The speciality of the house is the lamb kavurma, cut from well-rested animals, browned slowly over a low flame, and seasoned with nothing more than salt, pepper, and perhaps a pinch of dried oregano — the aim being to taste the meat itself rather than to mask it. Alongside this main dish the kitchen offers a range of classical Turkish accompaniments: piyaz bean salad, şakşuka of aubergine and pepper, bulgur pilaf, ayran, and a closing glass of tea. The menu also runs to grilled kebabs, stewed chickpeas, and soups including the ubiquitous mercimek çorbası of red lentils. The dining room is plain and hospitable, with tiled floors, wooden chairs, and the gentle hum of conversation in Turkish and, occasionally, Arabic or Kurdish. Regulars sit at particular tables and are greeted by name, and the staff bring extra bread without being asked. Prices are reasonable and the portions are generous, reflecting the Anatolian conviction that no one should leave the table hungry. Kavurmacı Hacı is a place for unhurried lunches and for the small, important conversations that punctuate a long working day. A small plaque near the entrance carries a hadith in beautiful Turkish nesih script, to the effect that God loves it when a servant does his work with care and excellence, and the spirit of that saying is evidently taken seriously by the family who run the kitchen, from the careful browning of the meat to the precise arrangement of each plate before it leaves the pass. For Muslim visitors to Ankara seeking a straightforwardly Turkish meal cooked with care, it is a warmly recommended destination that does not try to be anything other than itself.