Madura

Madura in Hammersmith serves Indonesian and Malay cuisine to a west London clientele that ranges from the substantial South East Asian diaspora communities of Ealing and Acton to the Muslim and non-Muslim residents who have discovered the kitchen through word of mouth. The restaurant sits along a busy street in Hammersmith, not far from the Tube station and within easy reach for the working population of the area. The menu is a thoughtful tour of the Indonesian and Malay kitchens: nasi padang with its small plates of rendang, curried egg, sambal, and vegetables over rice; nasi lemak with its coconut-rice base and accompanying anchovy sambal; Malaysian laksa in both its creamy lemak and its sharper asam forms; beef rendang cooked down to the traditional dark caramel; chicken satay with peanut sauce; and a range of vegetable dishes that honour the importance of gado-gado and kangkung in the home cooking of the region. The kitchen is fully halal — Malaysian and Indonesian cuisines are overwhelmingly halal in their home contexts, and the Hammersmith restaurant maintains that commitment, with no pork or alcohol and with meats from certified suppliers. The dining room is simple and comfortable, with photographs of Indonesian landscapes and a tiled floor that recalls a home kitchen rather than a chain operation. Service is attentive and patient, particularly with the frequent non-diaspora customers who need help navigating the menu. Prices are reasonable for west London, and the set menus at lunchtime are good value. The restaurant has become, for many London Indonesians and Malaysians, the closest thing to home cooking available in the capital. For Muslim visitors to London looking to taste one of the world's great halal-by-tradition cuisines prepared with care, Madura is an easy recommendation.